Hourglass shapes!!

The ribbon corset is finished!!  Yep, that’s right.  I set the grommets and put it on just a few minutes ago and I couldn’t be more pleased.

Ignore the chemise… I just threw that on.

The pattern was drafted by myself and probably not historically correct.  I used my corsets measurements for the waist (from my civil war beauty that needs yet more tucks placed in it) and my natural measurements to get a sort of hourglass shape to the side seams.  I wasn’t about to try creating the S-curve and to be honest, my back can’t take it.  Blame an old cheerleading accident, I do.  So, I opted to go hourglass verses the historical S-curve to save my already dancer-damaged spine.

You can see the bias tape I used as boning channels and the lack of S-curve.

Period (PINK) ribbon corset

You can see the four sets of boning channels I put in, per the images I found online.  I had planned to make a patch with the channels and attach it was one piece, but found that was a bad plan and switched it last minute.  The back boning channels are considerably less since I wasn’t going to be swaying my back like the period version.  Instead, I used just two, one on each side of the grommets.  It works wonderfully, but I would suggest, if you are going for the S-curve, that you put the four to six you since in the extant garments.  You’ll need them.

There’s a bit of pulling at the busk

The front doesn’t have any boning at all other than the busk.  Mine is 8inches and I’m glad I didn’t go bigger.  It hits at just the right spots for me.  Too much bigger and I might have had the shape of the period version, but I don’t have a lot of torso room.  I’m a tall girl but my waist and torso are comparably short for my height.  I will say that if I could do over, I might have re-enforced my ribbon casings around the busk with a cotton flat-lining idea.  They pull a little there in the front but luckily, I did stitch the seam a second time once it was put together.

Once laced together, the gap in the back (with shotty ribbon and lack of a lacer) was about 4 inches at the widest and 3 inches at the waist.  Measuring it, it only cinched me about one inch from my usual measurement:  27 to 26.  My civil war corset pulls me in at 24inches and honestly?  I still feel a bit un-supported so I’ll need to take it in.  I will note that I NEVER over-lace myself.  I have on rare occasions on accidents and nearly passed out (which is REALLY bad) and promptly had someone (even a random stranger) pull them out so I could breathe.  Overlacing is never my goal.  I just want to shape.

And I say this to deter any of those tight-lacers out there.  You don’t need it!  I swear!

Anyway… I’m INSANELY pleased with how it looks and can’t wait to put it with the whole ensemble.  It’s comfortable and my ribs can completely expand (yay!) regardless if I carry my breathing really high in my chest.  There should be a trend of these: they are fabulous!


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